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Monthly Archives: February 2011

Fey y Esperanza: A Former Refugee Camp Named Faith and Hope

SAN SALVADOR—We are in the hills just outside the chaotic urban sprawl at a former refugee camp where once bombs fell and Devora Rivas huddled inside the wire with hundreds of other women and children, not daring to go out and hoping the Army chose not to come in.  It is quiet except for the […]

The Val De Marne Clinic

EL ESPINO—The people come in from the hills, from miles down the coast, to see the doctor at the Val de Marne clinic. They line up, sitting in flimsy white plastic chairs in the blue-painted breezeway with their cuts and sicknesses, their ailing children. Dr. Ernesto Quinteros sees them one by one, taking their vitals, […]

“Why Don’t They Kill Them All?”: Interlude #1

SAN SALVADOR—We stopped for lunch at the food court at the large and modern mall in San Salvador. Over the last six years or so I have spent far more time at the mall in El Salvador than I have in the States in the last twenty. The group perused the options, many of them […]

Farther Away and Deeper in the Forest

EL ESPINO—The SARA group stepped carefully, one by one, into the fiberglass longboat. I stepped in last and took the spot in the prow so as better be able to film and photograph the excursion. The Salvadoran captain of the launch, an older fisherman, fired up the outboard and we were soon skimming along down […]

Sunrise on a Jungle River

EL ESPINO–It was still midnight dark when I woke. I checked my watch, 0500, plenty of time until I had arranged to meet Francisco. I showered and dressed, checked my cameras and slipped into the courtyard of Hotel Delfin Dorado, The Golden Dolphin. The watchman heard my door close and woke from his hammock. I […]

Return to El Espino

By Andrew J. Tonn Media Director  EL ESPINO—The early morning was dense with the sounds of mourning doves and cock crows, car horns and traffic that intruded on sleep as they echoed through the hard corridors of tile and plaster. I slipped from bed, dressed and padded out into the flower-filled courtyard of the Hotel […]

First Day: Apopa Clinic, CEFOR and Soyapango

  By Andrew J. Tonn Media Director SAN SALVADOR–The day broke clear and hot and despite the best preparation, the morning’s travels began late as is often the case in Central America. Eventually all hands arrived and were accounted for and we set out into El Salvador in a big and shiny bus labeled “Tourismo”. […]

On the Road to San Salvador

8 February 2011 SOMEWHERE ON THE ROAD FROM ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA TO SAN SALVADOR–It was dark and the stars were out when I stepped from my room on the rooftop of Hospedaje El Refugio. Cocks were crowing and from somewhere came the smell of copal incense that seems to permeate the very stones of the Guatemalan […]


SAN SALVADOR–I will here, for the time being, suspend my narrative of our journeys in Peru and skip forward to the present. On February 6 I flew from Columbus, Ohio to Guatemala City, took a shuttle to Antigua, where I spent two days at my old favorite, the Hospedaje El Refugio, and early the morning […]

The Long Chiclayo Day

26 November 2010 CHICLAYO, LAMBAYEQUE, PERU–We walked down a crowded, hectic, loud and hot street, dodging and weaving our way between people and I turned to my wife and said, “I like Chiclayo…” It was around noon. We had slept through the morning and Kristina had decided to take a dose of Cipro to knock […]