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Category Archives: Central America

Changes in Latitude, Attitude, and all the Rest

GUATEMALA CITY — In the days before a long adventure everything becomes a little more brightly colored, sharper edged, clearer.  There is heightened sense to everything, attention to the details of preparing yourself and your gear and completing the things that need to be done in your absence. I pulled every piece of gear out […]

18 Days and a Wake-up

GUATEMALA CITY — It has been a busy year.  It has been a busy decade.  I look out the office window and I can see volcanoes not so far away.  I look back through my journal, very little of which is interesting to an outside reader.  There are few personal revelations, little in the way […]

Diver Down

  Guatemala City — I remember my first time.  That first time sinking under the water and thinking, I can’t do this, I can’t breathe underwater, and on faith in the equipment taking that first breath. The dry air flowed through the regulator and filled my lungs.  I heard the hiss of the inhalation and […]

Six Views from a Return to Atitlan

 

Packing List for Mount Kailash

GUATEMALA CITY — This is my list for the trip to Mount Kailash, a trip I don’t know when or if I will make.  They say the mountain calls you when you are ready to hear and lets you make the pilgrimage to circumambulate its base when the time is right.  I do find it […]

The Fountain

The Long Central American Goodbye Part II: Bienvenido a Guatemala

GUATEMALA CITY — There may be no place in the world more familiar to me than where I am now, here, back in Central America.  At this point I have lived abroad longer than in my hometown (at least in recent years) and anyway, my hometown isn’t my hometown. I first came to Central America, […]

Permanent Change of Station, Again

It is the madrugada of our despedida, the hour before dawn on the last day we will spend in Monterrey.  I can smell the desert night that was and the desert day that will be.  This day has been months in coming, postponed, canceled, rescheduled.  It is almost September and summer still fills the darkness […]

Day of the Dead, Land of the Living

OAXACA — There is less distinction in Mexico between the great passions of love and death.  The two are acknowledged in life and depicted in art as intertwined, inseparable, a reminder of the other and the fleeting nature of human pursuit, the sweetness of the sun, the chill of the grave, the ever-present skull beneath […]

Periphery

EL PASO — The border is a fact of life here. There is no politics in that statement, no right or wrong. Whether you think the border should be torn down entirely or made an impenetrable wall, it exists here in El Paso in a way I have seen nowhere else. Years ago, when I […]