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Category Archives: Uncategorized

The Last Coliseum

SAN PEDRO GARZA GARCIA– My taxi headed north on Avenida Cuauhtémoc through downtown Monterrey to my first bullfight.  It was a fine, hot Sunday in northern Mexico and the cloudless sky was the starched, flat blue of a faded work shirt.  I had bought my ticket, front row in the shade (barrera y sombre), a […]

The Camel Fair of Pushkar

Permanent Change of Station

MEXICO — The monsoon rains had been slow in coming.  The heat built and there were clouds in the white-hot sky but the rains did not come.  People died in their houses and in the streets.  Everyone looked to the sky.  Now, during our last hours in India, storms lashed the windows. Impending change sends […]

Of Cameras and Karma

MUMBAI—India cannot be forced.  India will not adapt to you.  I am still learning the pattern and subtexts of interactions and could continue to learn them for several lifetimes to come.  I know enough to realize all the things I cannot see, to know there is an alternate universe of clues that I am missing.  […]

The Camel Fair of Pushkar

Time of Monsoon


Night City

BOMBAY–Rush hour starts late by American standards. At 8 a.m. the traffic is light. At 4 or even 5 in the evening the traffic is insane but light by Bombay standards. 7 p.m. is a madhouse of trucks and horns and motorbikes and rickshaws and trains and buses heading home into the evening.  The city […]

Up From Underground

Street Still Life


MUMBAI—The Arabian Sea is a shimmering blue-tinged gold and the tall palms a fringed wall of green. In between are the sands of Alibaug’s beaches. You can imagine those beaches have changed little since British colonists saw them from the decks of tall ships bound for old Bombay, or Shivaji’s armies marched by few hundred […]