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Category Archives: Uncategorized

Getting Ready

Diver Down

  Guatemala City — I remember my first time.  That first time sinking under the water and thinking, I can’t do this, I can’t breathe underwater, and on faith in the equipment taking that first breath. The dry air flowed through the regulator and filled my lungs.  I heard the hiss of the inhalation and […]

Six Views from a Return to Atitlan

 

Packing List for Mount Kailash

GUATEMALA CITY — This is my list for the trip to Mount Kailash, a trip I don’t know when or if I will make.  They say the mountain calls you when you are ready to hear and lets you make the pilgrimage to circumambulate its base when the time is right.  I do find it […]

Packing List Mantra

  GUATEMALA CITY —Packing a bag is an act of meditation.  The packing list, written down and repeated becomes a mantra that embodies the will to move from one place to another, the incantation that calls the trip into existence. This is a list, and a story about a list, that I have been working […]

Trips That Didn’t Happen

GUATEMALA CITY—I wanted to call this essay, “Trips that Never Come to Pass,” or “Trips that Never Happened,” but that would presume to know the unknown. “Trips that were Postponed,” assumes they actually will happen and, “Trips that Were Postponed but Might or Might Not Happen, Who Knows Anything Anyway?” is just awkward.  My life […]

Permanent Change of Station, Again

It is the madrugada of our despedida, the hour before dawn on the last day we will spend in Monterrey.  I can smell the desert night that was and the desert day that will be.  This day has been months in coming, postponed, canceled, rescheduled.  It is almost September and summer still fills the darkness […]

The Last Coliseum

SAN PEDRO GARZA GARCIA– My taxi headed north on Avenida Cuauhtémoc through downtown Monterrey to my first bullfight.  It was a fine, hot Sunday in northern Mexico and the cloudless sky was the starched, flat blue of a faded work shirt.  I had bought my ticket, front row in the shade (barrera y sombre), a […]

The Camel Fair of Pushkar

Permanent Change of Station

MEXICO — The monsoon rains had been slow in coming.  The heat built and there were clouds in the white-hot sky but the rains did not come.  People died in their houses and in the streets.  Everyone looked to the sky.  Now, during our last hours in India, storms lashed the windows. Impending change sends […]