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Category Archives: Uncategorized

A Kachiquel Lexicon

PANAJACHEL–People are often surprised to learn that the Mayans are still a vital culture, with their own languages, customs, religion and communities. It may have been a long time since they built any pyramids but the Maya are, if pressed by hundreds of years of Spanish conquest, forced assimilation, frequent massacres and the unstoppable encroachment […]

“Atitlan” from “Beyond the Mexique Bay” by Aldous Huxley

By Aldous Huxley, pages 128-130, Harper & Brothers Publishers, New York and London, 1934 ATITLAN–Lake Como, it seems to me, touches the limit of the permissibly picturesque; but Atitlan is Como with the additional embellishment of several immense volcanoes. It is really too much of a good thing. After a few days in this impossible […]

Up on the Mountain, Looking for gods

2 March 2011 SAN JORGE, LAKE ATITLAN, GUATEMALA—As you travel the steep road between Solola on the rim of Atilan’s caldera to Panajachel on its shore, you pass above the town of San Jorge. You look down, a thousand feet or so, into the center of the pueblo, over its houses and into the square […]

Atitlan Blues: Part II

PANAJACHEL, LAKE ATITLAN, GUATEMALA—I have never much cared for Panajachel, or “Pana” as it is called for simplicity and a cool, in-the-know factor. It is growing on me, however. For one thing it is far larger than I had thought and has tranquil areas removed from the swirl and dance of its downtown. Pana is […]

“Why Don’t They Kill Them All?”: Interlude #1

SAN SALVADOR—We stopped for lunch at the food court at the large and modern mall in San Salvador. Over the last six years or so I have spent far more time at the mall in El Salvador than I have in the States in the last twenty. The group perused the options, many of them […]

Farther Away and Deeper in the Forest

EL ESPINO—The SARA group stepped carefully, one by one, into the fiberglass longboat. I stepped in last and took the spot in the prow so as better be able to film and photograph the excursion. The Salvadoran captain of the launch, an older fisherman, fired up the outboard and we were soon skimming along down […]

Return to El Espino

By Andrew J. Tonn Media Director  EL ESPINO—The early morning was dense with the sounds of mourning doves and cock crows, car horns and traffic that intruded on sleep as they echoed through the hard corridors of tile and plaster. I slipped from bed, dressed and padded out into the flower-filled courtyard of the Hotel […]

First Day: Apopa Clinic, CEFOR and Soyapango

  By Andrew J. Tonn Media Director SAN SALVADOR–The day broke clear and hot and despite the best preparation, the morning’s travels began late as is often the case in Central America. Eventually all hands arrived and were accounted for and we set out into El Salvador in a big and shiny bus labeled “Tourismo”. […]

INTERMISSION

SAN SALVADOR–I will here, for the time being, suspend my narrative of our journeys in Peru and skip forward to the present. On February 6 I flew from Columbus, Ohio to Guatemala City, took a shuttle to Antigua, where I spent two days at my old favorite, the Hospedaje El Refugio, and early the morning […]

The Caverns of Quiocta

25 November 2010 AMAZONES, PERU–It was Thanksgiving Day, our first Thanksgiving together, and our last day in Chachapoyas. We had half-jokingly planned to celebrate the date with a feast of roast guinea pig and pisco sours but if we were going to see more Chachapoyan archeological sites we had to maximize our time. We needed […]