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Tag Archives: South America

The Long Chiclayo Day

26 November 2010 CHICLAYO, LAMBAYEQUE, PERU–We walked down a crowded, hectic, loud and hot street, dodging and weaving our way between people and I turned to my wife and said, “I like Chiclayo…” It was around noon. We had slept through the morning and Kristina had decided to take a dose of Cipro to knock […]

The Sarcophagi of Karajia–A Panic Over Tickets–Thanksgiving Dinner On The Night Bus And A Confusing Early Morning Arrival in Chiclayo

CHICLAYO, LAMBAYEQUE, PERU–After the caverns of Quiocta we descended to a pleasant lunch and were soon climbing back into higher mountains on our way to see the sarcophagi of Karajia. These nine-foot-tall anthropomorphic containers hold the remains of Chachapoyan royalty and date to around 800 B.C. They rest on a ledge, far up a cliff, […]

The Mausoleums of Revash

24 November 2010 REVASH, AMAZONES, PERU–Morning came too early. After two days of hiking we were sore and during the night we found our new hotel was on the path home for night-club revelers. The acoustics of the street funneled the sound directly into our room and it sounded much like drunken apes at the […]

The Waterfall of Gocta

23 November 2010 GOCTA, AMAZONES, PERU–From miles away you can see the cataract falling in a thin, silvery stream. The line bisects green jungle and is in two stages, falling to one shelf and then, much farther, to a base that cannot be seen until right upon it. In order to get right upon it […]

Kuelap: Mountain Fortress of the Chachapoyans

22 November 2010 KUELAP–When Hiram Bingham became the first scientific  discoverer of Machu Pichu he and the world thought he had discovered the lost city of Vilcapampa, the last redoubt of the Incas where they retreated to under Manco Inca and fought a long and bitter guerilla war against the Spanish. Manco Inca was murdered […]

Can You Tell Me How to Get, How to Get to Chachapoyas Street???

21 November 2010 CHACHAPOYAS—The previous evening we had been solicited for cabs several times while walking the few blocks from the bus station to Hotel Casablanca. We knew we needed to find a cab or collectivo (nothing more than a shared cab to offset the cost of a trip) to take us on to Chachapoyas […]

A Morning Stroll in Pedro Ruiz

21 November 2010 PEDRO RUIZ—It was Sunday and we tried to be good, get up early and go to church. I put on my black, traveling tie and she put on a long, tartan wool skirt and we decided, despite being Protestants, to go with the local consensus and find the Catholic place of worship.  […]

Leaving Tarapoto

21 November 2010 PEDRO RUIZ—We had hoped to be in the mountain city of Chachapoyas this evening but it was not to be. Despite the late night in Tarapoto we got up early, paid our bill and got a moto-taxi to the bus station before 0900. Unfortunately the bus for Pedro Ruiz—a way-station town where […]

Tarapoto: on the Edge of the Amazon

19 February 2010 TARAPOTO—The screen on the back of the shows a plane tracing a line, shows our progress from Lima towards the Amazonian city of Tarapoto. It is, necessarily, much more modern and less Romantic than a DC3 or a Fokker Tri-Motor but doesn’t change the essential fact that we are flying over the […]

Andrew & Kristina Tonn in Lima, Peru

18 November 2010, 14.50 hrs. LIMA—We walked off the busy, downtown Lima square into the quiet marble lobby of the Grand Hotel Bolivar on the Plaza San Martin and found the bar. The professional, black bow-tied bartender began building us two Pisco Sours and we relaxed after a long night and day of travel and […]